Journal of my Pacific adventure

I left England on October 3rd 2005 to live in Hawaii with my fiancée. We are travelling to New Zealand and some of the other Polynesian countries (+ Australia) over the next year or two. This blog is a journal of my Pacific adventure. Pete's new blog is available now, at www.allasoneword.blogspot.com

Tuesday, December 27

Christmas in Island Bay


Christmas with the Andersen family is a wonderful experience, I was made to feel very welcome and comfortable. There are seven kids plus spouses and partners, mum and dad and grandparents, and three brothers and partners and children attendant at dinner on Christmas Eve for a traditional Danish meal. We ate duck and ham with roast vegetables and cabbage; an excellent meal for thirty seven, most of whom left that evening to go home for their own family Christmasses. On the morning of Christmas Day we attended Mass and sang along to the carols before walking home for tea and breakfast. Presents take about two and a half hours to get through since they are opened one by one, a tradition I really enjoyed because it made one appreciate the effort made in buying gifts.

Svend bought me some New Zealand wine - thankyou!










Cath and Dylan bought me a t-shirt with a Maori tiki design - thank you!










Phillip and Erina bought me a book by Max Cryer - thank you!










Ellen bought me a cricket set - thank you!










Paul and Joella gave me a hunting knife - thank you!










Erik and Rachel bought me a lovely book - thank you!

Driving across the North Island

We left Auckland by car on the 22nd after completing two days of voluntary work at the Auckland Museum, cataloguing. Leaving Auckland was very exciting because of the opportunity to see more of the countryside in New Zealand. The drive took us along State Highway One to Hatepe on the first day, about a four hour drive. Cath made sure we stopped at the Haku falls so I could see this beautiful part of the landscape.

Ellen's grandparents have a place in Hatepe which gave us a pleasant rest overnight. Near to the edge of lake Taupo and surrounded by woodland, the building we stayed in is called a bach (pronounced batch) and is common amongst New Zealanders who need a place out of town for their holidays. The Andersen bach is full of books and pictures of sailing ships and furniture from the sixties and seventies. The bach has been in the family since the sixties, and the whole family use it over the summer for swimming in the lake and in the winter for skiing at the nearby volcano!

Continuing on State Highway One south from Taupo towards Wellington, on the 23rd, I was treated to a view of Mount Ruapehu and Tongariro, two of the active volcanoes in the area. Neither were erupting and both were swathed in cloud. We have determined to come back here to hike some time around the New Year. This part of New Zealand became Mordor in the film adaptation of LOTR, because it's a desert of brown grey rocks and cliffs. After several hours of driving we passed through Foxton where Ellen's Mum grew up and I had the chance to meet Uncle Basil and Uncle Russell. We only stayed for a moment because we had further to drive, on our way down to Wellington, which we reached at about six in the evening. Wellington is a harbour city, and is the capital of New Zealand.

Thursday, December 15

Welcome to Aotearoa New Zealand

Kia Ora!

The flight from Honolulu takes nine hours. I watched three very good films including The Island which I think Dave would really like, it reminds me so much of all that early science fiction we used to read, and boasts a new variation on the hilarious clone-kills-clone-in-identical-persons-pretending-to-be-each-other-shootout theme. I also watched Valiant which is a cartoon about carrier pigeons in WWII and Ricky Gervais is just so damn funny - even as a pigeon, it's too good to miss.

I was delighted to be met at the airport by Cath Andersen and her man Dylan with whom I am staying here in Auckland. Cath and Dylan are showing me a very good time and exercising considerable generosity while I wait for a cheque to clear into Ellen's bank account. Last night we saw Monsters of Metal play at the Kings Arms (the music is to be described as small-town stadium rock); after the band we enjoyed comedy by Neal Hamburger, who is a very very sick man.

Aotearoa lives up to it's name so far - not a hint of sunshine in sight, quite a beautiful hazy grey sky. Reminds me of Portsmouth, Hants.


Actually, Auckland city reminds me of Bristol, and to be more exact it reminds me of photographs of Bristol in the late 19th Century. There are lots of hills about, and trees and brick buildings. Shop fronts on the Kay Road appear to be original, with cast iron awnings right out onto the pavement. Auckland is a welcome change from Honolulu; I was so sick of all those Sports Utility Vehicles. So so sick.

Auckland is a fragmentary isthmus between the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean. We are planning to go fishing soon. Ellen arrives on Sunday and then we'll prepare to leave for Wellington which is a long drive and should present a chance to take some photography.

Wednesday, December 7

Some thoughts on crossing the Pacific

The sun rises in the east and sets in the west. Passing across the sky, in some places directly over our heads, the sun draws a natural line across the sky. The line means time, change, and direction. The apparent movement of the sun is caused by the passing of time, and is ofcourse an illusory result of our Earth spinning on its axis. Sitting mid-Pacific I notice the amusing reversal of the traditional cardinal directions as conceived by Europeans. Observed from here the sun appears to rise over America in the east, and the sunset occurs in "The land of the rising sun", over China in the west. This fact underlines the anachronism of East and West.

Here in Hawaii it is noticeable how blurred are the lines between cultures, especially in the light of dominant themes such as capitalism, globalisation, and militarism. A third of the population is of asian descent. The rest are a mix of native Hawai'ian and Polynesian peoples, a minority of African-American and native American peoples, and a majority of European/American peoples. One is unable to discriminate people by the colour of their skin in this environment; for example choose an asian face from the crowd and that person is just as likely to talk to you in all-American parlance as a caucasian, the caucasian may indeed be a tourist from far afield and speak to you in an Eastern European language. That same asian face you choose at random is just as likely to belong to a person born in Hawai'i, as to a bona fide Korean national (who happened to be schooled in the Midwest, which is common). So this multiculturalism extends to all walks of life and not just accent, but to knowledge of baseball, of history, and to political and religious beliefs. You can't make any assumptions if you pick somebody truly at random.

In my view Hawai'i is a colony, and the familiar story of colonial imposition is retold in Hawai'i every day; from the disproportionate numbers of Hawai'ians on minimum wage and sleeping on the streets, by the power-brokering of the United States Marine Corps and the US Navy in Hawai'ian politics, to the elitism of large corporations running golf courses and agricultural plantations, you can tell who is in control, and it's the usual suspects. One man owns the entire island of Lana'i, the sixth largest in the Hawai'ian islands. He is a business colleague of Bill Gates, who was married there in 1993 and who was rumoured to be interested in the purchase himself. For those of you who are aspiring to be Hawai'ian kings or queens, the figure was in the region of $675 million.

The East-West Center was founded in Honolulu in cooperation with the US Government to establish cultural and technical exchange between asia and the americans, exploiting Hawaii's perfect location for such a development. After all, with so many persons of foreign descent living in one place, the opportunity to share is great (and the threat of organized opposition is even greater). Hawai'i has ofcourse been a flash point in Asian-American aggression in the past, due to its strategic location in the ocean, and will continue to be a target as long as the militarism of nations continues. Hawai'i is also a location where big business from both sides of the ocean meet to make a profit. There is certainly an economic struggle reminiscent of previous military encounters, though the line between opposing sides is not so clear. After the attack on Pearl Harbour the Japanese people living in Hawai'i (which was not part of the United States at the time, as it is important to remember) were sent to mainland America to be detained. The likely opposition in today's economic struggle are not so easily identified. Businesses span the globe and their shareholders, directors, board-members and chairmen, are taken from many nations, just as their customers and patrons live in many different countries. The development of capitalism worldwide produces billionaires and ruling capitalist elites from the unlikeliest of places, take Roman Abramovitch the Russian as an example, at the time of writing his luxury yacht is touring the Pacific, mooring in New Zealand by the way. Who knows how many of these 'self-made-men' will emerge from the markets of China or India, cruising the Pacific in search of investment opportunities?

The future certainly holds the potential for great things in Hawai'i, for both the old and the new peoples. But is this future going to consist of a military balance between colonial nations, as it has been before? Or perhaps a capitalist paradise, a fairground run by corporations that transcend national boundaries, would this kind of cooperation protect the Pacific from the recurrence of war? It is impossible to say. One thing is certain however: as per usual, the greater part of this future appears to lie beyond the influence of the Hawai'ian people themselves. Just as the sun rises over America and travels toward the great Asian continent, so the balance of power passes overhead, beyond reach. Only by fighting tooth and nail have any indigenous people ever succeeded under colonisation.

When France detonated thousand's of pounds of nuclear explosive on the tiny Bikini Atoll, the indigenous people there were manipulated, exploited, and ignored. The native people of Hawai'i are also particularly disenfranchised by the economic, ecologic, and military development of their islands by colonial nations. Not to mention the Tahitians, Samoans, Tuvaluans and Nauruans, whose home, the ocean and its islands, is under invasion. If these proud peoples are to have any influence in the running of their neighbourhood, then they must continue to organise and demonstrate, as the Tahitians have done recently by achieving the successful overthrow of the incumbent French president in elections there.

"No one takes a walk under palm-trees with impunity"
Gotthold Lessing